Communism

Heroes' Square

Millenial monument constructed 1896

 www.budapestinfo.org/herossquare

Today I took a communism walking tour. It is rainy, so only three of us taking this tour, the guide is Miki. He shared many stories of growing up under communist rule. He said said that the country was poor, but they weren't hungry. He has happy memories of his childhood, a little less so when he was in secondary school.
One of the first places we stopped at was originally a bus station for international travel (I'd passed this place several times, wouldn't have known what it was) of course when it was built no one could afford to travel so the bus left with only the driver. Neither the bus nor driver returned to Budapest. Later when people could afford to travel it was still difficult as they were allowed only once every three years to exchange money into US dollars and only 70 dollars worth.
One of the later stops was in front of the building that housed the national television station. He said that it use to broadcast opera and ballet, culture for everyone. Another show he remembers was a talent show that the could vote for the ones they liked. They voted through power consumption. If you liked then act, you would turn on appliances (anything drawing power), then the television station would contact the power company to see when the highest consumption was, and they'd figure out the winner.

Facade on building facing the square the basilica is on. Constructed in the favourite communist style - Neo-ugly

Freedom Square
Controversy surrounds the monuments in this square.
www.failedarchitecture.com/budapest-freedom-square

Memorial to Soviet Red Army

Ronald Reagan

Imre Nagy

Monument remembering the Nazi occupation

Rememberance to the victims of Bloody Thursday

1956 Revolution

Parliament

 

After lunch I went to the terror museum. No pictures allowed. 

www.terrorhaza.hu/en/museum

Iron Curtain

Food Tour Budapest

After a full night's sleep (no jet lag!? Not the first night anyways, doesn't look like I will be as lucky tonight as I type this at 11:30), a light breakfast at my hotel and a check of the map and I am off to meet my guide from Food Tour Budapest. A little early, so a walk along the Danube is in order. Provide map assistance to a tourist from Finland. And come across possibly my favorite statue.

Meet up with my guide, Nora, there will be two others on the tour, unfortunately they are at the meeting point for Taste Hungary (Viator's fault). We meet them enroute, we are only a little behind schedule. First stop a parlour for a couple of shots. First up is Uniucm. Which is made up of at least 40 kinds of herbs and a minimum of 37.5% alcohol. Next was a blueberry liqueur (can't remember the exact name, Nora will be emailing me the details of the tour later, nice not to be bothered taking notes, but miss having all the info). The parlour also serves beer and wine, but no cocktails. Very popular with the university crowd in the area.

A short walk takes us to market hall #1, there are 12 market halls in Budapest. In this hall (can't speak for the rest) at least 90% of the produce is from Hungary. Here we sample some Hungarian salami.



One is made with spicy paprika, one with sweet paprika, one plain and the other on the tray is...wait for it...horse. Figured if I could try black bear last year... Not that common, more of a delicacy. It was okay, no need to have it again though.

Walked around the market. Interesting display on all the mushrooms growning in Hungary, the display shows which are edible, poisonous and toxic. it is a common activity for families in the country to go pick mushrooms together.
Next up was the paprika aisle. Sweet, spicy or smokey you can get it here! Paprika consumption in Hungary is approximately 0.5kg/person per year (about 4 times higher than the European average).

Next stop, cheese.

This cheese is brought in from the Transylvania region of Romania (which until the First World War was part of Hungary). All very good. On the small plate is a favorite childrens' candy bar. Cottage cheese coated in chocolate, brought to Hungary by the Russians. According to the guide, possibly the only good thing coming from communistism. Tasty, not at all what I expected - I don't like cottage cheese.

Next to a coffee house for goulash. Cafe Centrale. They have renovated the house as best they could to the way it looked before communism, it's very nice. This coffee house was popluar with writers and poets. In the 19th century there were 100 coffee house in Budapest, there are five historic coffee houses today. The white wine and goulash were both very tasty. The goulash was made with grey cattle, an ancient breed of dometic cattle indigenuous to Hungary. Hungary produces about 80% white wine and only 20% red, from the 22 wine regions. On the way out we stop by the pastry counter as Nora explained about the tradional Hungarian cakes. They all look very good - maybe later in the week.

Great time for a bit of a longer walk to our next stop in the Jewish district.

Hungary beats England in football in 1953

Grey Cattle

Kohely (which apparently means hangover soup). Here we have lamb stew, pasta with cottage cheese and sour cream, and lángos. Lángos are a fried puffy bread. Accompanied with a red wine, bull's blood. So called because the Hungarians let it run down there faces and the Turks thought they must have drank bull's blood.

On to our last two stops: cookies and coffee.

Can you believe this is the plate they brought out for 3 people!

They packaged up most for us to bring home!

Hello Hungary, hello gelato

11 months after I originally planned to do this trip I'm here. Still glad that I postponed it last year, ready now to enjoy some amazing cities!

My driver to the airport last night is originally from Prague, he tells me I am going to love it, and I will enjoy the beer. I impressed him with my language skills - as I know how to say beer in Czech.  Waiting for my connection in London, what are the odds that the mother and son I am sitting next to are from Calgary, Mom is originally from Pest. He tells me how much I am going to love Vienna (he's been several times).

Efficient taxi system at the Budapest airport. Line up at the kiosk, give them your destination, they printout a ticket with the taxi number and license plates so you know which one is yours and the driver already had the GPS programmed. As well an estimate for the fare. Lots of talk on the travel forums about unscrupulous taxi drivers, not sure if that's still the case these days or more a thing of the past. Fast check in at the hotel, happy with my accomodation choice. Less than a block from the opera house. Time for a little nap.

My plan had been to catch a free walking tour this evening. I had the route all planned to the meeting square and off I went. Two wrong turns and I was headed the wrong way. I know to trust my instincts and turned around before I got too far, but to late for the tour, so on my own. Lots of pedestrian streets, with lots of restautants and shopping (saw a great shoe store (boots!)) A little rainy tonight, hopefully things improve.

Szent Istvan Bazilika

And because this is Europe, there is gelato everywhere. Wasn't planning on having any tonight, until I found myself standing in front of Gelarto Rosa. Was not disappointed! Had hazelnut, and lavender white chocolate. There's a pretty good chance that I'll be stopping by here again. Lucky for me it's so close to home. I will have to go with more dramatic flavours (colours) next time.

Last day and trip wrap up

It was pointed out to me that I just stopped posting and left things hanging. So...

On my last day Terry and I headed to the Napoleon museum. Smallish museum, but well done (and free). Had no idea how big the Napoleon family was and how involved they were in the history in Italy. (No pictures).

Then we went to the Stadio di Domiziano archeological site. This was the first built in the 1st century and was paved over in the 15th century and is now Piazza Navona. A very busy tourist piazza. We stopped and shared a pizza and bottle of wine and watched the action.

Model of stadium

Excavated stairs

The afternoon was spent drinking wine in a square near our hotel in Trastevere. For dinner we went back to our favorite little spot, Cajo e Gajo.

Organized myself for my departure on November 5. Happy with my decision to go home early (still so as I write this a week later). Left early Thursday morning (and Terry, who had a great last day on his own). Uneventful trip to the airport, although the train was packed with those going to work, had to stand part way in the doorway - awkward with luggage, but I wasn't the only one. Eventually got a seat as the train emptied. The lady across from me had not validated her ticket, but lucky for her she did not get fined (€50). The was a fire last spring at FCO, the airport is a mess. 9 hour economy flight to Philadelphia. Not as bad as I had expected. Home via Seattle the next day. And I ended up being 'that' traveller - I have a cold. Thanks to Bela for picking me up at the airport. Picked up Einstein from the kennel Saturday morning. So happy to see my girl!

So in the end FANTASTIC trip. 10 weeks definitely long enough for me, serious travel fatigue by the end (no, I don't expect any sympathy, not the worst problem to have).

Some thoughts about my trip:
Favorite city: Stockholm
Favorite moment: Reaching the summit of Mount Maglic (thank you Samer)
Coolest experience: meeting my Swedish relatives
Funniest moment: 'Sauna' in Bad Radkersburg
Best meal: tough one, had a handful of great meals, but have to go with -  Swedish meatballs
Favorite natural spot: Plitvice Lakes National Park
Gelato: Florence; Perché No (honey and sesame), Gelateria dei Neri (cioccolato messicano)
Regret: not buying boots in San Marino (they were beautiful, but too expensive)

Heading back for the German Christmas Markets river cruise next week with Leah, won't be blogging, but will post pictures on Facebook and instagram.

Thanks to all who 'traveled' along with me.
Brenda

Flavian amphitheatre

Late, but thought I'd post it.
It was another nice day in Rome and we were are off to tour the Colosseum. When we first arrived in Rome this is the first thing I wanted to see. It is quite the structure. Terry had booked us in a tour, as it's the only way to gain access to the basement and the third level. Lots of information gained about the construction and how the amphitheatre was used. One of the things that amazed, and horrified, me was the number of animals killed during the 'games'.

After lunch we walked through the palatine hill and themforum.

Vatican Museum

As Terry said 'we didn't burst into flames'. We were there for a few hours. Just a couple of pictures.

A few pope mobiles.

Rome

Busy city.